Monday, June 28, 2010

Junya Watanabe autumn/winter 2010/11 collection

By Hilary Alexander, Fashion Director at Paris Fashion Week Published: 4:30PM GMT 06 March 2010

Paris Fashion Week: Junya Watanabe autumn/winter 2010/11 collection Photo: AP/ AFP

No problematic references, no subtexts; what you saw was what it was all about at Junya Watanabes pick up today.

The identical tiwn themes were troops and outside sport. But notwithstanding the strong functionality and practicality of these references, Watanabes take was gracefully-tailored and ultra-feminine, in a palette of army-green grey, black and white, with massive, four-foot-wide blonde wigs to underscore the fashionable sensuality.

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Long, khaki coats, were decently seamed and boned, following the contours of the body, and ragged over longer, white petticoats. Others featured stiffened seams in rings around the physique so the cloak stranded out, similar to a crinoline.

Rib-knit, khaki sweaters, right down to the knee, with string epaulettes and pockets, were ragged with ankle-length, pleated skirts; and fitted, single-breasted, khaki or grey jackets, came with white shirts (some open at the behind to show some-more shirt) and a whoosh of grey tulle springing out from the knee.

Tailored parkas, with fake-fur-trimmed hoods, were ragged with board and weave skirts, featuring webbing details; a khaki poncho with a simple, Sunray-pleat dress to the knee.

Even when Watanabe changed in to a camouflage-print, the mood remained womanly, even funky-sexy, generally when pencil skirts came with a fishtail of tulle; a hooded poncho, with a black tulle skirt; and pleated camouflage-print tunics were scored equally at the hip, draped or flounced, over thin, black knits and seamed, black leggings.